Universal Geneve 12253 Tricompax 18k Rose 1940s

A Rose Gold Chronograph Icon - Universal Genève Tri-Compax Ref. 12253

The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is one of the most iconic and collectible vintage chronographs ever made — and this ref. 12253 from the 1940s is a particularly rare and desirable version.

Housed in a mid-sized 34 mm 18k rose gold case with sharp angled lugs, this piece has the perfect proportions for modern wrists while retaining every bit of vintage charm. The silver dial, untouched and evenly patinated over time, displays a full triple calendar with moonphase and chronograph layout — one of the most beloved configurations in vintage watch collecting.

Powered by the revered Caliber 481, this Tri-Compax blends technical complexity with elegant 1940s/1950s aesthetics — a grail-worthy piece of Swiss horological history.

- wrist size in our picture is 18cm circumference -

DIAL:

• original never touched silver dial in good condition
• original hands and crown
  
• some evenly developed patina and very minor imperfections throughout the dial
  
• some numbers in the moonphase window might have been repainted in the past

STRAP & BUCKLE:

• brown GOLDAMMER KARDINAL Lizard Embossed Leather Watch Strap fitting up to 20 cm wrist size / 2 mm thick
• rose gold plated GOLDAMMER buckle

CASE:

• good overall condition, showing some traces of use
• 3- body 18k rose gold case with snap-on case back from casemaker Jung & Fils
• 34 mm (without crown) / 43 mm (lug-to-lug) / 16 mm (between lugs) / 13 mm thick
  
• year: 1940s
• reference: 12253
• total weight: 47 g 

MOVEMENT:

• Universal Geneve Cal. 481
• 17 jewels, 18000 A/h, 44 hours power reserve
• professionally serviced in 02/2026
• +12 sec/d / 280°

BOX & PAPERS:

• GOLDAMMER certificate of authenticity & service documentation card
• GOLDAMMER Box

GOLDAMMER REFERENCE: #1413